![]() Thank you so much for the feedback so far. Yes, it’s more expensive but much more stable and lasts. Double is trouble! We figure 60% waste for solid laminations of door parts - stiles, rails, and panels. I favor contributor P's approach.ġ,3,5,7,9 laminations up to a 4 inch thick door as contributor P suggests. However, I now have to make 8 identical doors. ![]() Up to now when I have made interior passage doors I have milled 8/4 down in stages, with excellent results. Two layers can result in a unbalanced product, due to variances in each piece of stock. After the glue cures, I then let them all sit for a few days, joint flat, plane to thickness. ![]() I will also do a 3 ply core, then apply a 1/4in face to each side for super stable door. Depending on the door slyle, that is if the profile is a cope/stick, I do 3, this way the profile never intersects the glueline. This makes a more balanced glue up and has performed for me flawlessly. I always use odd numbers, either 3 or 5 for the lams. When I have to fabricate large panel doors I use a laminate for the stiles and rails. Unfortunately, quality raw material is becoming increasingly difficult to obtain at affordable prices, thus the advent of increased use of fingerjointed boards and veneer. It really all begins with the quality of the initial raw material. Glues, processes and finishes can only help so much. On the other hand, if you travel to your supplier and hand pick your raw material, you can reduce your material waste some but the cost of time and travel may offset that waste factor. If you buy similar material frequently from the same supplier you may be able reduce your material waste some, but not completely. If you are dependent upon a supplier to select and ship your material to you, then you can expect a waste factor that varies between 40-65%, even higher. I don't want to sound like I'm preaching, but a quality finished product begins with the selection of raw material. Something to consider here is a factor often overlooked by many custom manufacturers. Have you considered (A) flattening your material on a jointer prior to doing any work on it at all, and (B) selecting relatively straight stock for these incredibly critical parts? You might want to reconsider whether or not you really want to fabricate doors at all. Sometimes this works very well (straight mat) and sometimes not (bowed mat) Does anyone have any thoughts about how to improve the average? I face glue them with opposing bows facing each other to help offset bias. Once the shape has been chosen, it is sufficient to introduce the dimensions of the frame to quickly reach the complete definition of the window, the shutter, the dark or the door.Īll the projects are parametric: when PowerWIN measures are changed, it automatically recalculates the position of all the internal elements, including hardware.Occasionally I am asked to construct doors using two pieces of solid lumber glued face to face to make up the stile and rail mat. Thanks to the interactive 3D graphics, with PowerWIN you can design windows and doors and configure the parameters of all the elements with a simple "click": casement, sashes, overlaps, sections, plays, stiles, rails, baseboards, glass, panels, louvre, boards, junctions, dowels, raws, hardware, etc. Management of 3, 4 and positioning 5-axis machining.DXF export of wooden pieces, glasses and assembled panels.2D, 3D and photo-realistic rendering of the window/door. ![]() Complex windows/doors with profile change.PowerWIN is the ideal software solution for the parametric design and production of windows, solid wood doors, flush doors, shutters, jalousies and standard and special frames.
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